Advice on front suspenion

smokeyyank

Jeepoholic
NAXJA Member
In the process of the new build and want to start sourcing some parts. Ideally, I want to fab a 3 link in the front. I have a HP44 that I'm building for it so will get the TnT truss for that. Will be running 35's and aiming for about 5" of lift. Here's what I'm thinking.....

-Clayton cross member
https://www.claytonoffroad.com/jeep_cherokee_front_3_piece_cross_member_1984_2001_xj

-Ruff stuff Heims or JJ still not sure. Thinking JJ because I will drive my junk on the road still and JJ are fairly serviceable.

-4.5" coils, still undecided on a brand.

-Possibly getting ACOS

-Ruffstuff track bar with offset mounting on axle and outside mounting for frame.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/PANKIT.html

My questions are.

-If I go with a clayton cross member. Do I need to use the 3 link calc to get those numbers dialed in? If so whos' got the dummy guide to doing it.

-Any advice on coils?

-For the upper link should I run passenger side or driver side? I was originally thinking driver side, but did some reading and think passenger side may be better.

-Should I go with Johnny joints over heims? I know this can be more personal preference but want to see.

-Any think else I'm missing?

Thanks:cheers:
 

kcox506

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
If you wait a little bit on the ACOS we are making an adjustable Air Bump Coil Retainer setup at Ironman4x4fab. Also have you given Barnes4WD Enduro joints a thought? They're a bit stronger than the JJs and heims.

Air bump system in question

 

smokeyyank

Jeepoholic
NAXJA Member
If you wait a little bit on the ACOS we are making an adjustable Air Bump Coil Retainer setup at Ironman4x4fab. Also have you given Barnes4WD Enduro joints a thought? They're a bit stronger than the JJs and heims.

Air bump system in question
Those are nice! When would they be available? Any idea on a price range?
 

kcox506

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Those are nice! When would they be available? Any idea on a price range?
Pricey. The Air bumps alone are all of 450. King is the only company that makes fully threaded air bumps. You won't be able to use anyone else's like Fox for example. The entire kit, which what is shown is incomplete, will be closer to $1000. Jeepspeed guys will definitely be interested, but this isn't something I'd expect everyone to be snagging up given the price.

Still working out the reinforcement brackets that will brace the bump. I'd say we will have a final design withing a month.
 

smokeyyank

Jeepoholic
NAXJA Member
Pricey. The Air bumps alone are all of 450. King is the only company that makes fully threaded air bumps. You won't be able to use anyone else's like Fox for example. The entire kit, which what is shown is incomplete, will be closer to $1000. Jeepspeed guys will definitely be interested, but this isn't something I'd expect everyone to be snagging up given the price.
Gotcha, yeah I guess $200 compared to 1k probably wouldn't swing right now, but I do like those.
 

trippled

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Have you looked at pirate? They had a decent 3 link thread in the Cherokee section.

Why not build your own cross member? The Clayton one just looks like it hangs so low. I'd vote passenger upper so you don't have to package the arm around the drive shaft.

And look at pac spring too. They had a lot of xj coils.
 

Kittrell

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Close! That is a progressive rate Deaver Coil. I think you need to call them anymore to get the XJ ones. The only ones they advertise these days are the 5.5" JeeSpeed pair. There are other options, Metalcloak makes some.

http://www.metalcloak.com/TJ-LJ-Wrangler-Coils-Dual-Rate-3-5-Front-p/7060.htm

http://www.rockkrawler.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RK02003

http://www.racingsprings.com/Jeep-Speed-Lift-Springs/sku/301
 

srb531

New member
tnt is a higher cross member & super strong, i just put the metal cloak coils on my jeep , w/ the existing acos i have turned all the way up & the 3.5 inch MC coils i got 5 " of lift. i can still adjust the acos down another 2 " if i wanted more lift in the future.
 

smokeyyank

Jeepoholic
NAXJA Member
Have you looked at pirate? They had a decent 3 link thread in the Cherokee section.

Why not build your own cross member? The Clayton one just looks like it hangs so low. I'd vote passenger upper so you don't have to package the arm around the drive shaft.

And look at pac spring too. They had a lot of xj coils.
Yeah I have, and scoured through a bunch of build threads. Reason for considering Clayton is because it's already built and has the removable section. If I do go with a 4 link rear I may consider just fabbing my own.

I did look at PAC's and do like their coils. Was kind of the way I was leaning for the coils anyways, but wanted to hear some opinions.

TNT is a radius arm set up so won't work for what I need.
 

tow hook

New member
In the process of the new build and want to start sourcing some parts. Ideally, I want to fab a 3 link in the front. I have a HP44 that I'm building for it so will get the TnT truss for that. Will be running 35's and aiming for about 5" of lift. Here's what I'm thinking.....

-Clayton cross member
https://www.claytonoffroad.com/jeep_cherokee_front_3_piece_cross_member_1984_2001_xj

-Ruff stuff Heims or JJ still not sure. Thinking JJ because I will drive my junk on the road still and JJ are fairly serviceable.

-4.5" coils, still undecided on a brand.

-Possibly getting ACOS

-Ruffstuff track bar with offset mounting on axle and outside mounting for frame.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/PANKIT.html

My questions are.

-If I go with a clayton cross member. Do I need to use the 3 link calc to get those numbers dialed in? If so whos' got the dummy guide to doing it.

-Any advice on coils?

-For the upper link should I run passenger side or driver side? I was originally thinking driver side, but did some reading and think passenger side may be better.

-Should I go with Johnny joints over heims? I know this can be more personal preference but want to see.

-Any think else I'm missing?

Thanks:cheers:
the claytons is already set up, so the math is done for you. as for joints I have good luck with the ruff stuff and the j.j. from claytons, my 2cents keeps the 3rd link on the diff. an use what ever coils you want I use old r.e. 5.5" fronts with the tnt truss, I think you'll be in good shape.
 

tow hook

New member
Yep ideally will get just the cross member and build my arms. Also thinking about going with the rear coil conversion in the rear and getting the whole skid plate and rear cross member from Clayton as well. Forgot about the ballistic joints, I do like those and the fact the have a lifetime warranty. You're talking about these coils right?

http://shop.broncograveyard.com/80-96-55-Extreme-Coil-Springs-CSF64/productinfo/33510/

you can't go wrong with rear coils me love them:smootch:
 

tow hook

New member
Pricey. The Air bumps alone are all of 450. King is the only company that makes fully threaded air bumps. You won't be able to use anyone else's like Fox for example. The entire kit, which what is shown is incomplete, will be closer to $1000. Jeepspeed guys will definitely be interested, but this isn't something I'd expect everyone to be snagging up given the price.

Still working out the reinforcement brackets that will brace the bump. I'd say we will have a final design withing a month.
me likey, i'll be waiting to see the final product, glad I didn't finish the engine cage yet.
 

smokeyyank

Jeepoholic
NAXJA Member
the claytons is already set up, so the math is done for you. as for joints I have good luck with the ruff stuff and the j.j. from claytons, my 2cents keeps the 3rd link on the diff. an use what ever coils you want I use old r.e. 5.5" fronts with the tnt truss, I think you'll be in good shape.
So on this, since I'm running full width will it matter on the geometry for what the Clayton cross member is set up as? My learning curve is going to be huge on this so bear with me. Why do you prefer the diff for the 3rd link? I've read about both sides, some like the passenger because clearance and not worrying about the drive shaft. Others have said diff is better because the mounting surface of the diff provides better support.
 

Kittrell

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
The Clayton cross member is really point and shoot. The mounts are designed to match the factory mounting points on your axle. Axle width has no bearing on geometry for links. Most production XJ 3 links keep the upper on the driver's side. Maybe that is because the diff side is heavier so it's more supported, but do not quote me on that, pure conjecture.
 

smokeyyank

Jeepoholic
NAXJA Member
I was reading about joints and from what I gathered even though they cost a lot, people say they work amazing and last a lot longer.
 

1990JEEPXJ

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
If you get heim joints spend money on them. I love ruffstuff heims but they dont last like FK or similar ones. Or go rebuildable.
 
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