ARB solenoid leaking oil

4x4JeePmaNthINg

New member
I'll dig through the install instructions again, I thuink originally it wanted me to the into ignition, but I choose a different 15A key on circuit.

I suppose a relay would be fine to add and wire it independently. Maybe I can step it up to 30A so I can carry fewer size fuse spares.

Well I'll dig into this new issue, hopefully fluid will stop after cycling the locker a little.
 

RCP Phx

New member
They just want a "Ign on" source but it needs to be protected at 15A. You have some spare fuse slots available in the interior fuse box.
 

4x4JeePmaNthINg

New member
Ok im shit for electrical but let's see if I can explain where I'm at thus far.

I've tested the pump directly to the battery, it runs

I've visually inspected all wiring, all good

I then tested 12v to the compressor switch,it's present. Disassembled the switch and it looks as New as ever.

I ohm tested the harness that goes between switch and compressor, .02-.04 on all wires including body ground. Looks good

I disconnected the harness switch side, cycled the switches with the harness unplugged and the fuse didn't blow. Once I reconnected the harness and left all but body ground disconnected, cycled switches and the fuse blew again.


Now I'm really lost.
 

4x4JeePmaNthINg

New member
I did, it's shit for what was going on. Fortunately for me I just fixed the switch actuation sutuation with the help of a damn knowledgeable friend.

Pins were not oriented correctly and the switches were shorting rather than switching the circuit. After digging through everything and testing lots, this guy had a gut feeling we had a short, and he was damn right.



Now! There must be a good deal of oil in the line because I've cycled this thing 10 times or so and it's blowing oil from the solenoid Every time.
I'll drive with it in tomorrow and cycle it a bunch more, hopefully thuis solves the spray.
 

4x4JeePmaNthINg

New member
Alright,

Went for a long drive and left the locker on, went and peeled out over some countrybumpkin roads. Never had a hiccup of engagement. I cycled it on/ off a few times before parking it, seems good on function.

I read on ih8mud, the comp should hold anywhere between 4-14 minutes otherwise it's a possible indication of o ring damage.

First compressor cycle kicked in @ 4 min, 2nd @ 10 min, 3rd @ 15 min, 4th @ 30 min. Looks like it's working well. The first two times I'm chalking up to it having not functioned for a year, and oil in the line.
It's still purging a mist, but it's not spitting anymore, after the 30 minute I cycled on/off a few times and it seemed to clear out a good deal of residule oil.

I'll try pulling the airline off the diff and purging a couple cycles, maybe it'll help evacuate anything extra.
 

cwyman6

New member
It's the square orings leaking in the locker. Pull the line at the diff and turn the switch on the clear it out. This is one of the reasons why I hate arbs. Its cause you havent used the locker in a while.
 

4x4JeePmaNthINg

New member
It's the square orings leaking in the locker. Pull the line at the diff and turn the switch on the clear it out. This is one of the reasons why I hate arbs. Its cause you havent used the locker in a while.
Should've done my homework more before choosing one.
Thus sulphur sneeze it's got going is gross.

Once the line has been cleared will this stop the fine mist that happens when turning off the locker?

Also, shouldn't the compressor release all air once the comp switch is turned off?
 

Greenz

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
ARB has a fix for this but it's not cheap. I have ARB front and rear lockers but so far have not had this issue but probably will someday.

ARB Purge Valve Kit 170110

The Air Locker Purge Valve is designed for use with Air Locker differentials to purge impurities such as moisture, dust and oil from the airline that can impair the performance of the Air Locker. Pressing the purge button blows any contaminants out of the exhaust port of the valve, maintaining low moisture levels in the air system and eliminating the possibility of passing contaminants back and forth throughout the solenoid. The Purge Valve also incorporates a back-pressure-regulator that has been factory set to 3-4 psi preventing oil misting problems associated with poor axle ventilation.


Another ARB solution: less expensive

90-Degree ARB Solenoid Exhaust Fitting SKU MCDF-6564

Use this 90-degree ARB solenoid exhaust fitting to route a 5mm nylon air line to the outlet port of your ARB Air Compressor solenoid. This is great for those who want to use an oil catch can with their air solenoid to prevent oil vapors from spraying into their engine compartment or for those who mount their air compressors or solenoids inside their interior and want to route the exhaust gas outside.
Prevent oil spray from damaging your engine compartment or interior. This can also be used to "silence" your ARB Air Locker for those who don't like the pssshhhh sound or want to "hide" the use of their air locker.
 
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cwyman6

New member
Should've done my homework more before choosing one.
Thus sulphur sneeze it's got going is gross.

Once the line has been cleared will this stop the fine mist that happens when turning off the locker?

Also, shouldn't the compressor release all air once the comp switch is turned off?

Should stop the mist once line is clear. Compressor will not release the air when it is turned off. Only the solenoids release air
 

4x4JeePmaNthINg

New member
Should stop the mist once line is clear. Compressor will not release the air when it is turned off. Only the solenoids release air
So is the solenoid malfunctioning if air isn't always released? It usually does if the locker is shut off, but the solenoid doesn't always release if only the compressor is selected and then turned off.
 

cwyman6

New member
So is the solenoid malfunctioning if air isn't always released? It usually does if the locker is shut off, but the solenoid doesn't always release if only the compressor is selected and then turned off.
Huh? From what you say everything is working fine just a little oil in the line. Take it off at both ends and clear the line. Problem solved.
 

Einulfr

New member
Internal...? Any idea what gives or why, that's a bit odd for some thing hardly ever used.
I've heard that it's due to the poor design of the inner bonded seal (#160702 for the 8.25). I have both a front and rear, and the front seems to leak sometimes as the compressor will cycle intermittently when engaged, and I've smelled gear oil a few times while messing with it in the driveway. Watch some youtube videos of people with similar setups in action and you'll hear their compressor working overtime; it shouldn't do that.

Supposedly ARB has a new seal design (not sure if same part number or superceded) which seems to have fixed the issue, but it's not enough of a problem for me to consider ordering it and yarding the assembly out of the axle to replace and reinstall it.
 
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