bad steering + money = new steering options?

BrokeBrewKnow

New member
Hey guys I know the topic has been beaten to death, but my steering box is shot and my heep is lifted too high for the factory setup. I only want to change the setup one time thats why I am looking for some honest good advice. I am looking at an AGR steering box and pump with provisions to add hydro assist later, wondering about quality? Also going to do something like 1 ton steering or something over the knuckle at the same time.

Thank you for any info,
Mike

Heres a pic of the steering now(I know its bad)
 

RCman

Life is big block
What's your budget?
Are you looking for a kit or a DYI setup?

Best bang for the buck, IMO?
- Grab some TREs (common 1-ton chevys) or rod ends of choice, tube adapters, and 1.5" 0.250" wall DOM will yield a simple drag link, tie rod, and panhard.
- New axle end panhard mount so angles are consistent.
- Rebuild stock pump, buy a reman, or buy a PSC high volume pump
- Rebuild the stock box/port it for assist or buy PSC box.


The end results of the above get you something like this (no hydro assist on this and not my XJ). Yes I understand this is high steer on a D44, but the same thing can be accomplished at a lower height on the stock arms of the D30 knuckles.


Edit: Check out this thread for some helpful information and ideas too.
 
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robsjeepxj

New member
I wouldn't spend that kind of money on any kit that doesn't at least give you better ground clearance. I have the same setup as RCman but I bought it from JCR. Yes you still need the reamer (ebay) but instead you can move the TRE's "over the knuckle". I would do the "over the axle" trackbar/swaybar mounts mod too at that the same time to eliminate the possibility of clearance and dead spot issues.
 

RCman

Life is big block
Also just wondering why you would say to go with PSC instead of AGR?
I have had great service from PSC, no experience with AGR. Do some searching on the two.
I wouldn't spend that kind of money on any kit that doesn't at least give you better ground clearance. I have the same setup as RCman but I bought it from JCR. Yes you still need the reamer (ebay) but instead you can move the TRE's "over the knuckle". I would do the "over the axle" trackbar/swaybar mounts mod too at that the same time to eliminate the possibility of clearance and dead spot issues.
Again, that setup above is not mine.
Your point about OTK is a good, free, one.
 

robsjeepxj

New member
A stock 99 Durango box and a stock XJ PS pump w/ the high pressure fitting drilled out to 1/8" will give you all the power you need to run your system. I wheel mine on black and red trails all the time with this setup, it works really well believe save your money on the bling stuff and just get a little more creative. You can find write-ups for both of these mods either here or on Jeepforum is you looking for them.
 

BrokeBrewKnow

New member
I wouldn't spend that kind of money on any kit that doesn't at least give you better ground clearance. I have the same setup as RCman but I bought it from JCR. Yes you still need the reamer (ebay) but instead you can move the TRE's "over the knuckle". I would do the "over the axle" trackbar/swaybar mounts mod too at that the same time to eliminate the possibility of clearance and dead spot issues.
They do sell an over the knuckle kit on the same site.They also have a track bar relocation bracket and sway bar brackets as well.
 

BrokeBrewKnow

New member
robsjeepxj what do you run for a setup on your rig? I am still new to this stuff and only want to redo this stuff one time. I dont see the sense in replacing the same parts more than once for obvious reasons. And the reason I was looking at AGR or PSC is for hydro assist down the road.

Thanks for the info,
Mike
 

SPXJ

New member
What's your budget?

D30 high steering I build.

I used 1 1/2 x 1/4 wall chromoly tubing and ¾” heims.

Driver side bracket-




Passenger side bracket-



The brackets are attached at the original tie rod end hole
(drilled out to 5/8”), at the two forward unit bearing bolts and an additional attach point on the out side of the bracket directly to the forward arm of the knuckle.



Here you can see the original tie rod location and the new location, Passenger side (forward and in).







The result of this was the tie rod is forward 1 ½” and 2+/- above its original location. I am very happy with the out come of this steering.
 

ZipperheadXJ00

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
What's your budget?

D30 high steering I build.

I used 1 1/2 x 1/4 wall chromoly tubing and ¾” heims.

Driver side bracket-




Passenger side bracket-



The brackets are attached at the original tie rod end hole
(drilled out to 5/8”), at the two forward unit bearing bolts and an additional attach point on the out side of the bracket directly to the forward arm of the knuckle.



Here you can see the original tie rod location and the new location, Passenger side (forward and in).







The result of this was the tie rod is forward 1 ½” and 2+/- above its original location. I am very happy with the out come of this steering.

I really like the fabrication you did! How long did it take you to come up with this setup?
 

1990JEEPXJ

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
he actually sells that as a complete kit now. very good guy to deal with. i wouldnt hesitate to buy it from him.
 

1990JEEPXJ

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
not sure. just send him a PM. like souske said, hes a super nice guy and i have had him do some work on my jeep before.
 
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robsjeepxj

New member
robsjeepxj what do you run for a setup on your rig? I am still new to this stuff and only want to redo this stuff one time. I dont see the sense in replacing the same parts more than once for obvious reasons. And the reason I was looking at AGR or PSC is for hydro assist down the road.

Thanks for the info,
Mike
I run the JCR OTK kit w/ their OTA trackbar bracket, shortened trackbar and no swaybars. Also have the Durango box and drilled stock pump. Oh and a stock ZJ pitman arm (1" drop compared to stock XJ)

Just so you know hydro assist is illegal in most states for street use because of the possible loss of steering that can result if something should fail.
 
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