Can this header be welded?

MiNi Beast

New member
This is my 93 XJ 4.0 and she just cracked. I would like to know if it is weldable and abple to do it with it still in the veheicle? Just need a temp fix to keep it from stalling out everytime I come to a stop. Going to be getting a new header later.
 

YELLAHEEP

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
I'm thinking you're having issues other than that little crack causing your XJ to stall out. I've run XJ's with much larger cracks and the decrease in back pressure still wasn't enough to cause it to run poorly.

I sold a '95 last year with almost an identical crack. Ran great, passed emissions.

Just my $.02.
 

mcnamaag

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
YELLAHEEP said:
I'm thinking you're having issues other than that little crack causing your XJ to stall out. I've run XJ's with much larger cracks and the decrease in back pressure still wasn't enough to cause it to run poorly.

I sold a '95 last year with almost an identical crack. Ran great, passed emissions.

Just my $.02.

X2 The one on mine is WAY worse than that and it stll runs great.
 

MiNi Beast

New member
mounts are fine. The crack most likely came when I tighten a bolt that was almost falling out on the flange.

As far as the stalling I don't know. Thought this could be the problem with the fact I shortened up the exhaust and have only a cherry bomb on there.

But drives fine down the road but then I depress the clutch pedal and brake and she bogs down and will stall if I don't feather the gas a little to maintain the rpm's.
 

Blaine B.

New member
What's wrong with welding? If done properly it'll last. Add a piece of flexpipe down the line somewhere to kind of seperate the rest of the exhaust from the manifold.
 

MiNi Beast

New member
Rev Den said:
it can be welded, the question really is SHOULD it be welded?

Just replace it.

Rev
I would but at the moment can't being I just put out for the my tranny swap and new driveshaft. So need it to get me by for now.
 

rogersjeep

New member
put in on in the afternoon and started it the next morning to go to work and before i got out of the neighborhood it statred to stink like hell and a few minutes later i could hear to leak.
 

lawsoncl

New member
I suppose it depends on where you use it, but it is rated to 500*F.
http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php. You do need to let it cure for at least 24 hours before applying the heat to it. If you have to clean it down to bare metal to epoxy it, I'd be tempted to braze it instead but I think the differing metals would probably crack again in short order.

Personally, my preference would be to tig weld it.
 

gill41083

New member
that jb weld is a pain to get off to weld it later down the road, i have welded a few when i used to work at the exhaust shop, the jb weld doesnt work worth a $h!t, just hit it with the wire feed and it should be fine.
my 2 cents
 

Hypoid

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
gill41083 said:
just hit it with the wire feed and it should be fine.
my 2 cents
X2
Run your weld a little cold to minimize undercutting. Lay another bead down and the base metal will crack at the edge of the bead...just like the original weld.
 

lawsoncl

New member
I'm thinking your problem is more along the lines of a bad TPS, IAC, CPS, or vehicle speed sensor. Try cleaning the throttle body and IAC. If you have a meter, you can test the TPS as well. For the CPS, maybe unplug the connector which is near the back of the intake manifold and clean it.
 

MiNi Beast

New member
lawsoncl said:
I'm thinking your problem is more along the lines of a bad TPS, IAC, CPS, or vehicle speed sensor. Try cleaning the throttle body and IAC. If you have a meter, you can test the TPS as well. For the CPS, maybe unplug the connector which is near the back of the intake manifold and clean it.
The speed censor, is that what tells me my mph? Cause my speedo no worky.
 
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