Constant Tension Clamp From Hades.

Runnin'OnEmpty

New member
This is the one attaching the lower radiator hose to the
water pump. The clamp tangs are up under a brace and
almost impossible to reach. I finally removed the left
fan and used a CT clamp tool to get it loose enough to
pry downward past the waterpump tang, allowing the
lower hose to be pulled off.

This was supposed to be a quick and easy job (replacing the
lower hose), but the clamp position made removal a bear.
I could have had the new hose on and the job finished in
the time it took to remove that stupid clamp. All because it
was installed at the factory where the tangs were not easily
accessable.

I plan to either position the CT clamp where it's easier to
remove, or use a screw clamp on the lower hose.
Which is the better option? Thanks.
 

8Mud

New member
Screw type clamps aren't much better, only a couple of positions where you have the space to tighten them. The up side to screw type clamps is you can tighten them if you have a seep. The down side is if you over tighten the clamp or position it a little wrong you can cut the hose with the clamp edge.

If you go with a screw type clamp use a 5/16 socket (mostly) and forget about the screw driver. Use a 1/4 inch drive extension, don't over tighten, snug but not red face tight.
 

md21722

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
A lot of times its easier to remove parts than work around them. I prefer the factory constant tension clamps over the worm clamps. The constant tension clamps eliminate all the problems with over tightening and under tightening.
 

Runnin'OnEmpty

New member
Screw type clamps aren't much better, only a couple of positions where you have the space to tighten them. The up side to screw type clamps is you can tighten them if you have a seep. The down side is if you over tighten the clamp or position it a little wrong you can cut the hose with the clamp edge.

If you go with a screw type clamp use a 5/16 socket (mostly) and forget about the screw driver. Use a 1/4 inch drive extension, don't over tighten, snug but not red face tight.
Agree. I had to use a screw clamp since there was no way to get CT pliers in the limited space. Even then, I had to use a 1/4" ratchet to get at the clamp from the side. And the socket was indeed 5/16", good call.
md21722 said:
A lot of times its easier to remove parts than work around them. I prefer the factory constant tension clamps over the worm clamps. The constant tension clamps eliminate all the problems with over tightening and under tightening
I too prefer the CT clamps. I have CT pliers and still couldn't get that top clamp off, until after removing the electric fan. Even then it was a bear. There's just no room in that area to work.
Thanks to you both.
 

Runnin'OnEmpty

New member
That Craftsman cable pliers is similiar to the tool I finally removed the clamp with. Plan B would have been to cut the hose around the clamp and rip the whole mess out. I suspect that's what most people do. Fooling with that lower hose took 2 hours, installing the top hose was about a 10 minute job.
 

JeepNoob

New member
Good screw clamps every day of the week and twice on Sunday. They're easier to undo and from what I've heard, the factory clamps, being a spring loaded design, can lose tension over time. First coolant flush I did on mine, I got all new hoses and walked into my local mom-and-pop hardware store and got a metric buttload of U.S.-made stainless steel screw-type hose clamps for all the hoses. They were kinda pricey (about a buck a pop) but I've had them on my rig for nearly 3 years now with no issues.
 
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