Dana 30 truss vs sleeve

csailors

New member
Im looking to strengthen my Dana 30 when i re gear. Those that have done either or give me your opinions.

I am leaning towards the inner tube sleeves due to clearance and track bar mount but i think ill have to remove the knuckles to do this?

Do you sleeve the short side also or just the long?

Running 35s now and just doing it for a little insurance. Dont get crazy with the throttle, just slow speed stuff and crawling.
 

denverd1

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
did sleeves when I put in front locker. cheap insurance and I had it apart anyway. did both sides.
 

csailors

New member
the greater advantage comes from trussing.

what clearance issues do you think youll have?
Oil pan clearance in the center. maybe track bar axle mount

To sleeve the housing makes its more rigid from bending. Which is what I am looking for. The defiantly strengthens the tube. If you are referring to the center section that is not my concern as it is not the weak point. Just the carrier deflection inside is. Weight is also an issue.
 

cwyman6

New member
Sleeving is a waste of time. The housing just breaks where the sleeve stops. Seen 2 of them break in the same spot.
 

VAhasnoWAVES

New member
Oil pan clearance in the center. maybe track bar axle mount

To sleeve the housing makes its more rigid from bending. Which is what I am looking for. The defiantly strengthens the tube. If you are referring to the center section that is not my concern as it is not the weak point. Just the carrier deflection inside is. Weight is also an issue.
you are taking one (perceived) failure mode and moving it to another point. by making the tube more rigid, you are moving the weak point to the housing, which is already vulnerable... watching people huck jeeps at the dunes, the failures ive seen most often are bent Cs (not the tube itself) and cracked housings. sleeves will not address this. trussing is a better option.

the housing and center section deflect together. they are not independent of one another. reducing housing deflection, reduces carrier deflection, which reduces ring gear deflection, a big cause of ring gear failures. a full carrier replacement (full case locker) and stout diff cover also help combat ring gear deflection.

artec makes a great budget minded truss. having seen it in person, clearance is not an issue. having ran a trussed (larger) axle, clearance is not an issue. and that was with high steer and a raised track bar mount. proper bump stopping goes a long way.
 

csailors

New member
That makes a valid point. I never had the need for neither option before but mvong up in tire size I’d like to get a little strength back in the front. Don’t know what to do if anything on the rear now.

I’ll take a look at the truss. I just setup my bumpstops now for the 35s on 3” lift so I’m set for clearance now.

I checked out the truss. Def have to modify that to work with my track bar axle mount.
 
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csailors

New member
I’ll have to make my own anyway due to my track bar mount. I’ll just make the c gussets and may as well truss the rear while I’m at it.

Rear axle is bent forward 1/4” on the drivers side. Need to try to bend it back before the truss goes on. Winch and a tree??
 

TRCM

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
I’ll have to make my own anyway due to my track bar mount. I’ll just make the c gussets and may as well truss the rear while I’m at it.

Rear axle is bent forward 1/4” on the drivers side. Need to try to bend it back before the truss goes on. Winch and a tree??
Doubt that would work....if you pull it with the winch, the suspension will just let the whole thing move....need to get it out of the vehicle and on a press or alignment table/plate to straighten it....somehow you need to keep the straight part from moving while you bend the bent part back in line.
 

RCP Phx

New member
Doubt that would work....if you pull it with the winch, the suspension will just let the whole thing move....need to get it out of the vehicle and on a press or alignment table/plate to straighten it....somehow you need to keep the straight part from moving while you bend the bent part back in line.
x 1000
 

Boostwerks.com

NAXJA Supporting Vendor
Sleeving is a waste of time. The housing just breaks where the sleeve stops. Seen 2 of them break in the same spot.
Agreed. IMO, the only benefit of sleeving is to make the tubing less likely to dent from an impact, which isn't exactly a huge concern for most.
 

VAhasnoWAVES

New member
I checked out the truss. Def have to modify that to work with my track bar axle mount.
a better stroke of business would be to chop the track bar mount off, weld a truss down, and tie the mount back into the truss. stronger and less work in the long run.
 

srb531

New member
Agreed. IMO, the only benefit of sleeving is to make the tubing less likely to dent from an impact, which isn't exactly a huge concern for most.
i did the truss, gussets & sleeves, the sleeves mostly to add weight to the front housing . i like heavy metal , it helps keep my front tires on the ground & reduce my mpg as much as possible.
 

dan1977p

New member
Doubt that would work....if you pull it with the winch, the suspension will just let the whole thing move....need to get it out of the vehicle and on a press or alignment table/plate to straighten it....somehow you need to keep the straight part from moving while you bend the bent part back in line.
Heating where you want it to bend is helpful too. Do you have some unicorn of a rear axle that getting a replacement to build up and swap in when ready is not an option? Sounds like you're just getting started so it may be easier that way.
 
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