Lower control arm mounts

XJ_ranger

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
I cant take credit for inventing this, I think I stole the idea from Goatman or Crash a bunch of years ago.... but here goes:

In today's world of suspension building where most folks opt to buy pre-fabricated brackets, and then struggle to make them work on whats left of their frame, I thought I'd take a few pictures to present an alternative that I've used a few times with success.

Most off road joints were designed to bolt in place of an OEM XJ/MJ/TJ/LJ/ZJ suspension joint, and therefore have a 2-5/8" mounting width.
As such, most all aftermarket joints can be purchased in this mounting width, or spacers can be purchased to make them this width.

A piece of 3"x3"x3/16" box tube can be fabricated into an LCA mount with simple shop tools as follows:

Grab a washer for the bolt size you're going to use, or a misalignment spacer. Position it so that its on the corner of the box, and no part overhangs the box or the radius on the edge of the box.


Center punch this.


Check to make sure the joint body will clear the piece of the box that we're not going to remove


drill you hole on the center punch mark (see my high end drill bits and the kind of holes they make?)


cut off the 'bottom' of the box to clear the joint body -


cut a triangle out the back of the box on both sides -


hammer that in place, and use some of the other cutoff to finish the plate -


weld some, grind some -




 

XJ_ranger

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Why not just use 2 pre-made tabs?
Sometimes its easier to have more material to weld to, when you need to make a mount where there isnt anything easy to weld to - like in this case - where I'm in-boarding my LCA mounts on the frame side, to gain more clearance for my tires, so I can hopefully make my jeep turn sharper.







I'll add some gussets to help spread the load before I call it good, but thats the concept.

I've also seen these used where they could be welded into a crossmember.

I've run these to locate my rear axle for about 2 years now -












 

MoparManiac

New member
What's the advantage of those over something like these from Ruffstuff?



Other than the fact that I'm sure you have little to no money invested in yours, and Ruffstuff's are 1/4".
 

XJ_ranger

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
I'm looking at that hole you drilled and cringing. You should invest in a set of these if you're going to be drilling a lot of larger holes. They punch 9/16 or 5/8" holes in 3/16 metal like a hot knife through butter. 50-60 bucks for the set of 5/16" - 3/4".

http://www.blairequipment.com/Rotabroach_Cutters/rota_cutters.html
Thanks, I'll look into those.

What's the advantage of those over something like these from Ruffstuff?

Other than the fact that I'm sure you have little to no money invested in yours, and Ruffstuff's are 1/4".
Probably none, except I have this now, and dont have to wait a week for them.
 

JeepFreak21

New member
I'm looking at that hole you drilled and cringing. You should invest in a set of these if you're going to be drilling a lot of larger holes. They punch 9/16 or 5/8" holes in 3/16 metal like a hot knife through butter. 50-60 bucks for the set of 5/16" - 3/4".

http://www.blairequipment.com/Rotabroach_Cutters/rota_cutters.html
Wow. I'm going to have to pretend that those just came out, or else I'll kill myself thinking of all the time, energy, drill bits, and hole saws I've wasted building this Jeep. Ordering now.
Thanks!
Billy
 

vetteboy

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Wow. I'm going to have to pretend that those just came out, or else I'll kill myself thinking of all the time, energy, drill bits, and hole saws I've wasted building this Jeep. Ordering now.
Thanks!
Billy
Absolutely worth the money. Not only do you save a shit-ton over expensive twist drills, but they work a lot better with most home fab equipment too.

I can drill a 3/4" hole through a 3/16" frame with a cordless hand drill and no pilot hole in about 15 seconds, maybe less. Just centerpunch and go.
 

Captain Ron

New member
I got the same thing from Snap-on. Labeled as Blue point.

Nice tool.

But,,,

You and a few others obviously missed the point of this thread.

Worse part about this whole thing is?

Your kids might someday be nuke boat crew... In which case, they're screw' ed... d...d.

By no fault of mine.

:D
 

Vanimal

New member
I think it'll work great. Might want to throw on a few more tacks. No need to gusset, just spot welding it to the factory sheet metal is plenty stout. The oval holes will give you a little room for alignment as well. Nice feature.
 

Vanimal

New member
Can those rotabroaches be sharpened on conventional shop equipment?
not precisely, but someone with a steady hand can probably make them cut again a few more times as long as they dont get too bad before you touch them up.
 

nosigma

NAXJA Member # 1371
NAXJA Member
Clearly I have not followed the progression closely. Last time I checked you had a disappearing pax side 3 link with the chassis end pax side tied to a reinforced floor. Now all I see is a bunch box tube, a cut up chassis and mounts welded to the frame.

What happened to the reinforced floor mount, did it fatigue and rip out?

John
 

XJ_ranger

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Clearly I have not followed the progression closely. Last time I checked you had a disappearing pax side 3 link with the chassis end pax side tied to a reinforced floor. Now all I see is a bunch box tube, a cut up chassis and mounts welded to the frame.

What happened to the reinforced floor mount, did it fatigue and rip out?

John
Still there, holding strong. That was the upper link.

looked like this in 2007 -




To be honest, I've built a false floor over it, and haven't seen the thing since 2011, but its still there, because the front axle hasn't pulled out yet :doh:
 
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