RE CA Drop Brackets, LCA too tight?

G

garr

New member
I replaced some badly corroded RC drop brackets with a new set of RE DB, Seems the RE lower control arm pockets in the brackets are too tight, I had to spread them open a bit just to get the LCA into the bracket, I'm sure they would fit better if I removed the caster adjusting insert, but the RE instructions say to use it.
How tight should the control arms be?
Should the move freely up & down or does bushing flex allow for up down movement?
 
cal

cal

NAXJA Warranty Voider
NAXJA Member
Very common issue. I use a piece of allthread and 2 nuts to spread them before I put the arms in. No issues once its done.
 
G

garr

New member
Did you guys leave the caster adjusting insert in place or toss it?
 
Last edited:
cal

cal

NAXJA Warranty Voider
NAXJA Member
I generally leave it in place.

On a few rigs I've determined where I want the arm to go and then welded weld washers on the outside of the drop bracket instead.
 
Tim_MN

Tim_MN

Freakish Hand Strength
NAXJA Member
The control arms can be a tight fit when assembling the drop brackets. Use the caster adjuster. Torque all hardware to spec with the tires on the ground.
 
un4gvn1

un4gvn1

Resident Grump
NAXJA Member
Are your old brackets in good enough shape to use as a template to make new ones?

If so, are you interested in selling 'em?
 
StinkyFab

StinkyFab

NAXJA Supporting Vendor
This is a common issue with any welded double shear bracket (speaking generally here). When you weld parts together the heat makes things move and shrink very slightly. In the case of a control arm bracket usually you'll put a fixture in place of the joint you intend to use, then weld. The problem is if you fixture is the same size as your joint (or if you just use the joint) when the welds cool the whole bracket tightens up. When I build my engine plates and tranny mounts I have to hammer the fixture tube out after welding. Knowing this I make the fixture about .065" oversize so that while the fixture may not be easy to get in or out, the actual part going in will. If I'm doing something where I don't have a fixture I'll slip a 1/16" shim in before welding.

Sounds to me like the fixture they use just doesn't have quite enough oversize. That's not a huge problem though, just do what Cal said and spread the bracket a little.
 
VAhasnoWAVES

VAhasnoWAVES

New member
StinkyFab said:
This is a common issue with any welded double shear bracket (speaking generally here). When you weld parts together the heat makes things move and shrink very slightly. In the case of a control arm bracket usually you'll put a fixture in place of the joint you intend to use, then weld. The problem is if you fixture is the same size as your joint (or if you just use the joint) when the welds cool the whole bracket tightens up. When I build my engine plates and tranny mounts I have to hammer the fixture tube out after welding. Knowing this I make the fixture about .065" oversize so that while the fixture may not be easy to get in or out, the actual part going in will. If I'm doing something where I don't have a fixture I'll slip a 1/16" shim in before welding.

Sounds to me like the fixture they use just doesn't have quite enough oversize. That's not a huge problem though, just do what Cal said and spread the bracket a little.
Click to expand...
throw on top of that how thick powder coating can be... and things get tight.
 
Ivan

Ivan

I Jeep, therefore, I am..
Since the CA Rubber bushing and metal bolt sleeve stuck out a bit from the end of CA, I just ground them down until they fit in the drop bracket...

My RE drop brackets are fairly stout, and I would be hard pressed to spread them with some all thread.... Grinding the bushings just seemed easier at the time
 
G

garr

New member
Ivan said:
Since the CA Rubber bushing and metal bolt sleeve stuck out a bit from the end of CA, I just ground them down until they fit in the drop bracket...

My RE drop brackets are fairly stout, and I would be hard pressed to spread them with some all thread.... Grinding the bushings just seemed easier at the time
Click to expand...
They actually spread pretty easily, I used a 9/16 nut & bolt, I welded the bolt head to a unistrut flat fitting (basically a piece if 1/4" plate with 1/2" holes in it)then I used another fitting placing the bolt through its hole & the hole in the DB, cranked the nut until things spread out where I wanted them, took 10 minutes of fab time & 5 minutes per side to spread open, easy!
 
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