track bar build
- Thread starter garr
- Start date
You can't thread 3/4" I'd to 3/4", if you buy 7/8"x3/4" Heims you could tap the tube for them. The strength of tube will be more than enough.
thanks, what size tap do I need?
7/8"-14 tap and 13/16" drill bit.
That would leave the tubing pretty thin at the tapped area, I'd stick with 7/8" Heims.
I was thinking the same thing, the reason I ask is because the JKS trackbar I'm running now measures about 1.25", if Jks felt it was ok to cut 1" threads into this size tubing it must be ok, unless I'm missing something here?
Seiler
New member
You could also purchase weld in tube adapters, which is what I did.
http://www.summitmachine.com/index.php?p=customParts&cp=ta
http://www.summitmachine.com/index.php?p=customParts&cp=ta
The tubing he wants to run only has a 3/4" id, so unless he wants to run 5/8" Heims or drill out the tube to install the tube adapter, taping is a much better option. 1/8" wall should be enough if you go with a 1" tap, but I like to overbuild things. I've seen aftermarket track bars fold under heavy side loading while pulling another vehicle out of a snow drift.
Seiler
New member
I agree, I like to overkill stuff too and I didn't see his initial tubing size. :doh: I priced a large tap like that when working on mine and didn't feel like donating my kidney to pay for one.
For my pan hard + steering I used 1.5" diameter, .25" wall DOM. For the vehicle side of the pan hard I used a 7/8" thread, 7/8" diameter heim and a tube adapter.
I should have read the sizes of his tubing before replying. It's too early in the morning for forum-ing. :laugh:
VAhasnoWAVES
New member
this...
your buying a large drill to make the bore the right size, and 2 taps. at least i would, for left and right hand thread. another section of tube and a couple inserts is FAR cheaper unless the OP has the correct taps readily available.
I do have access to all the taps.
I am making them both Right Hand threads, I see no need to be able to adjust the track bar length like wheel alignment, Set it once & Done.
Seiler
New member
I would suggest against this, I make slight adjustments to mine constantly.
I mean, it's not the end of the world or anything... But it's so much easier to loosen the jam nuts and spin the bar rather than disconnecting either end and having to worry about supporting the Jeep. Where I live here in CO we enjoy the pleasure of having to visit the emissions facility every 2 years... I have a set of emissions tires I switch to and find adjustments are needed then for the smaller/different set of tires.
If you have access to a set of R/L taps, take the extra time to make it adjustable. You won't regret it.
Track bar adjustment necessary due to a change in tire size? I'll cry bs. The track bar shouldn't ever need adjusting unless you change suspension height or something gets bent.
+1, I sit at about 4.5" lift now, The only time I had to re-adjust the track bar was when I went from 2" to 4.5" of lift.
I'm not familiar with CO emissions requirements, What does tire size have to do with emissions testing?
The theory is smaller tires are easier to turn, less load on the engine, lower emissions. My 89 has always passed ca emissions on 35's and so has the wife's wj. If you were borderline on emissions, it might help.
Seiler
New member
:doh: again. I need to start paying attention.
I was thinking of my drag link and tie rod. I have TRE's on all 4 ends of those and when moving from my 35" Baja Claws to a cruddy set of 33" BFG All-terrains, I typically I have to make minor adjustments to the tie rod toe in or out. In order to keep the steering wheel centered I then adjust the drag link.
It's not as crucial for the pan hard to be as adjustable, but I still like to know mine can in case I need it to be without having to disconnect everything.
I'm super jealous if you're actually able to test your vehicle on 35" tires, which would make life so much easier.
I was thinking of my drag link and tie rod. I have TRE's on all 4 ends of those and when moving from my 35" Baja Claws to a cruddy set of 33" BFG All-terrains, I typically I have to make minor adjustments to the tie rod toe in or out. In order to keep the steering wheel centered I then adjust the drag link.
This is correct, however you just described two situations where you still might need to adjust it.
It's not as crucial for the pan hard to be as adjustable, but I still like to know mine can in case I need it to be without having to disconnect everything.
Whether or not this is true I don't know, but the main reason for the tire change is the emissions facilities out here in CO will not test your vehicle on their dynamometer if your tire size is over 34".
I'm super jealous if you're actually able to test your vehicle on 35" tires, which would make life so much easier.