Trans cooler upgrade?

4x4JeePmaNthINg

New member
99 auto with country tow package.


I'm curious if anyone knows of an after market trans cooler, that has the same clip on ends that the stock cooler has?
These are the same clip fitting as the radiator trans cooling input.




Thanks
 

RCP Phx

New member
To answer your question,No. But the most important thing is to get a good "plate" cooler, adapting isn't a issue.
 

lazyxj

NAXJA Member #1310
NAXJA Member
99 auto with country tow package.

I'm curious if anyone knows of an after market trans cooler, that has the same clip on ends that the stock cooler has?
These are the same clip fitting as the radiator trans cooling input.
Earlier this summer, I installed a large trans cooler to deal with heat of our summer trips.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XONS3A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It plumbs up differently than the stock cooler, it takes several feet of new oil line but isn't a difficult project. It took care of the transmission oil temp issue.
Do make sure the fan clutch is working, they don't see to last long, I had to replace the 2001 XJ's two-year-old fan clutch on the road this summer.
 

RCP Phx

New member
You can get a "barb" fitting for anything but if your going to go that route I would recommend "NPT's" on the cooler
 

RCP Phx

New member
If your planning to keep the internal rad cooler then you should decide which way your going to route it (rad/cooler vs cooler/rad).
 

4x4JeePmaNthINg

New member
Mainly I was thinking of keeping this setup the same, and just upgrading the separate trans cooler I already have from the tow package.

It's a little guy, but better than nothing. I've had the carpet out and the tunnel + exhaust gets friggin hot. I thought some cooling help wasn't a bad idea for it's age.
 

two_door_rob

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
My Jeep had an external trans cooler from the factory (up country package) you can just cut the stock cooler off and run hose and a new cooler right to those lines and attach with hose clamp. That's what I did. The factory cooler is pretty small and I wanted something bigger
 

bajabronco

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
In my rig I bypassed the cooler in the radiator, and am running two separate tranny coolers (overkill!) . I have a heavy girl on 37's, steel bumpers and a hybrid cage. The tranny use to heat up on the long climbs in the mountains. Separating the engine cooling from the tranny cooling allowed me to isolate each system and deal with them separately. Now both systems run really well -





 

Jim Malcolm

New member
Not to disagree in any way with the above, but to answer your question, it's a 5/16" quick connect tube fitting. If you search Summit for 5/16 quick connect, you'll find the parts you need. Personally, I've bypassed the radiator entirely after getting pink milkshake trans fluid in my DD, using a B&M 70268 with AN-Barb fittings at the transmission (1x 45°, 1x 90° & M14x1.5 ORB to 6 AN adapters) and regular hose. If I could do it again, the Hayden 679 is bigger and will easily fit.
 

Dragonslayer

New member
The Dorman 918-251 trans cooler looks and fits like the OEM MOPAR tow package cooler
except that it has a few extra passes (loops) and so it has greater heat transfer capacity.

The only thing(s) are that it is a bit pricey when compared to the other offerings out
there, and it gets mixed reviews for build quality and fit. Except for those points it
looks like it could be a perfect "sleeper" (near factory-look) upgrade.

I hope that somebody from Dorman reads this and may improve on this part.
 

RCP Phx

New member
The Dorman 918-251 trans cooler looks and fits like the OEM MOPAR tow package cooler
except that it has a few extra passes (loops) and so it has greater heat transfer capacity.The only thing(s) are that it is a bit pricey when compared to the other offerings out there, and it gets mixed reviews for build quality and fit. Except for those points itlooks like it could be a perfect "sleeper" (near factory-look) upgrade.I hope that somebody from Dorman reads this and may improve on this part.
You can't improve this, it's a tube and fin cooler, run away as fast as possible.
 

Jim Malcolm

New member
This is a touchy subject. No transmission routes all of the oil through the cooler; the hoses just aren't big enough without significant backpressure. An orifice is used to proportion off some of the fluid to flow into the cooler circuit. By adding a filter, you're increasing the backpressure, thereby reducing the percentage of flow that goes through the cooler circuit. The orifice size can be changed to account for this when rebuilding, but it's not something you're going to want to tackle just for the heck of it. Personally this is one of those things that I thought long and hard about and decided that the downsides outweighed any upside. Magnetic drain plug and regular drain-and-fills are my $0.02.
 

4x4JeePmaNthINg

New member
In my rig I bypassed the cooler in the radiator, and am running two separate tranny coolers (overkill!) . I have a heavy girl on 37's, steel bumpers and a hybrid cage. The tranny use to heat up on the long climbs in the mountains. Separating the engine cooling from the tranny cooling allowed me to isolate each system and deal with them separately. Now both systems run really well -





Really dig your rig, do you ever plan to use a radiatoir that uses it's surface area for coolant only? 4.0 powered?
You can run something like this

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-331000

I'd personally bypass the radiator an run a stand alone.

Since the stock hoses are kind of junk I'd also freshen up with some nice AN fittings.
I replaced the lower rad trans line, it's the only reason I was thanking of keeping quick connects. Did you ever run extra cooling rads?
Not to disagree in any way with the above, but to answer your question, it's a 5/16" quick connect tube fitting. If you search Summit for 5/16 quick connect, you'll find the parts you need. Personally, I've bypassed the radiator entirely after getting pink milkshake trans fluid in my DD, using a B&M 70268 with AN-Barb fittings at the transmission (1x 45°, 1x 90° & M14x1.5 ORB to 6 AN adapters) and regular hose. If I could do it again, the Hayden 679 is bigger and will easily fit.

Never thought of such a thing, but a good idea!

Ive read aw4 like running warm, has anyone had the impression they've cooled too much?

An inline temp gauge would be sweet if I ever find the coin.

The rad bypass suggestions have me intrigued as well, but why the different fittings? Are they simply easier to remove than the quick connect( loath these)?
 

smokeyyank

Jeepoholic
NAXJA Member
I did run an external cooler. I bypassed the rad, helped with the engine temps slightly but was a bigger help for the tranny temps. As for the temp the AW4 likes running a little hot, think it's 170 or 180 as the ideally operating temps. Really the biggest issue someone will ever say they had would be in the winter if you are dealing with sub 0 temps.

As for the AN fittings it's basically because yes the stock fittings suck. I was constantly fighting little leaks. I replaced what I could but it was never right, expect when I finally bypassed the rad.
 
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