What to do while interior is completely stripped

dan1977p

New member
So I pulled the seats, console, trim and carpet out to fix all the rust. Everything is patched and primed. I even took the time while the console was out to pull the transfer case shifter out to drill the hole it needs for the BoostWerks linkage. So far, only a marginal improvement in road noise but the big thing is no more water intrusion from the floor.

Anything else I should do while it's stripped? I'd like some sound dampening. Would the rattle can undercoating I have in the garage be enough of a dampener if I sprayed the inside and then threw the newly cleaned carpet and padding back down?
 

90xj06

New member
i was just in this situation too. and now i want that linkage but it will have to wait. i dont really want to pull everything again to get that out.
 

dan1977p

New member
i was just in this situation too. and now i want that linkage but it will have to wait. i dont really want to pull everything again to get that out.
Yeah, I really wish there was a disclaimer when ordering the kit that said you had to pull your center console and the shift lever out. I would have been really pissed and probably just welded the new tab on from underneath if I hadn't already had the interior stripped.
 

90xj06

New member
ill most likely wait until spring. i just swapped a 242 in and i am having a little trouble shifting it. the whole linkage just flexes.
 

Alaskan89XJ

New member
Interesting inquiry to obtain a sound dampening material.., hmmm. I tossed out the under-hood insulation, (which dampens engine noise for one thing), as I want to hear my engine/components!!!!

Personally I use undercoating as undercoating. Might work inside to help cut down a few decibels, but I am sure there is something much better, i.e., similar to the hood stuff perhaps. Only issue with adding a thick pad on your metal flooring; below your insulation, and carpet, will be making it all fit properly. Maybe ensolite, (closed cell camping sleeping bag ground pads), will work.
 

Ralph77

New member
Interesting inquiry to obtain a sound dampening material.., hmmm. I tossed out the under-hood insulation, (which dampens engine noise for one thing), as I want to hear my engine/components!!!!

Personally I use undercoating as undercoating. Might work inside to help cut down a few decibels, but I am sure there is something much better, i.e., similar to the hood stuff perhaps. Only issue with adding a thick pad on your metal flooring; below your insulation, and carpet, will be making it all fit properly. Maybe ensolite, (closed cell camping sleeping bag ground pads), will work.
Funny you should mention the ensolite. In the spring I am going to be putting a overhead console in my '00. Was thinking while I had the headliner out maybe I should do something. Frankly the noise and whatnot does not bother me. More one of those while I am here type things. DynaMat and the like is kinda through the roof price wise. Also putting leather headrest seats in. Haven't decided if I want to keep the power seat as a power seat though. Figure have to take up some of the carpet for the wiring. Been toying with the idea of POR 15'ing my floor pans inside and laying something down there too. Again a while I am there kinda of thing. I remembered those ensolite pads from when I used to backpack and wondered about using them like you suggested after pricing some of that DynaMat stuff.
 

Alaskan89XJ

New member
Cool.., seems the product is reasonably priced, (other than free, or found at a garage sale, etc., lol), and meets the requirements of sound-deadening, (according to their site's blurb). I was surprised that they claim their 1/8 inch product can provide that. Camping pads are usually 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch as I recall. I suppose any thickness size can be utilized to meet the respective customizing needs. I'd consider 'mo is 'betta, especially above the floor approaching up against the interior side of the firewall, over the transmission tunnel, and other strategic places, like the cargo area.

Although I'd use the cheaper cost camping pads where they can be captured/pinned under carpet, I can see how well their sticky product could be useful, i.e., inside door panels, under headliner, (as a repairing layer), or replacement thereof, etc.

Thanks for the link, and I have book-marked it, (in considerations), for that possible future day application. Seems they have a lot of different product applications for my possible future study.

Still.., over the normal drone of running/rolling sounds.., I generally prefer to be able to 'hear' new additional/different sounds making their presence known.
 

dan1977p

New member
Sound deadening is really an incomplete phrase. Really its vibration dampening with some padding to help with sound and if the padding is the right type, heat as well. That's why you rarely need full coverage of the actual deadener product. You just need enough to interrupt the vibration in the sheet metal so it doesn't need to be thick.
 

blu3fan

New member
I did my whole XJ in Fatmat It made it silent on the inside. even with the huge tires.
I have the doors and floors done. Not the roof yet. but its on my list.
I went overkill and used their 100ft kit. Im not even kidding every inch but the roof is covered.
With windows rolled up. I can hear the electrics buzz. LOL its amazing.
 

Ralph77

New member
I did my whole XJ in Fatmat It made it silent on the inside. even with the huge tires.
I have the doors and floors done. Not the roof yet. but its on my list.
I went overkill and used their 100ft kit. Im not even kidding every inch but the roof is covered.
With windows rolled up. I can hear the electrics buzz. LOL its amazing.
Exactly which Fatmat did you use? I went to their website. I see Fatmat and Fatmat No Logo. Trying to determine if there is a difference besides no logo. And why would I care one way or the other. Then I see Rattletrap and Megamat. You seem pleased with it so I want to consider it. And the 100 sq ft did all four doors and the floor area. When you say floor exactly what do you mean. Under the front and back seats but not cargo? Also figure I would try to get a handle on how much material is needed too.
 

dan1977p

New member
Got some mat at an audio shop in town. I know I overpaid a bit but I needed to get this done this weekend since I doubt I'll have much time after I move back to VA this Wednesday. Worked ok but I would love some more deadening. I think the new exhaust with the turndown under the jeep is my biggest problem now, though. I may reduce the output of the muffler down so I can reuse the tailpipe I had since the exhaust shop said they couldn't route 2.5" between the gas tank and shackle. Hopefully pushing the tip out to the bumper will annoy everyone else but keep me sane. ;)

I also haven't done the front half or the doors which I suspect will make a difference too.


 

rockosocko

New member
Don't forget to route a 6 or 8ga power source HOT down either side or down mid/and or rear with any RCA wiring to amps or subs, and 'duck tape' them down to prevent chafing.
You can also add a main 'bus' distribution point for any LED wiring from there instead of having to draw ALL THE WAY from the front.
What I want to do for my son's is route wiring up through the hatch bottom so when it's open there are LED's shining down to light up the rear/outside near the hitch. Same as with the front 'under' hood. So when It's open, light is brightly shining down from latch area front.
The wiring size/gauge is all up to the user. In addition to some of these neat little covered fuse blocks that are out there, it really opens up the possibilities.

Just my .02
E
 

dan1977p

New member
Don't forget to route a 6 or 8ga power source HOT down either side or down mid/and or rear with any RCA wiring to amps or subs, and 'duck tape' them down to prevent chafing.
You can also add a main 'bus' distribution point for any LED wiring from there instead of having to draw ALL THE WAY from the front.
What I want to do for my son's is route wiring up through the hatch bottom so when it's open there are LED's shining down to light up the rear/outside near the hitch. Same as with the front 'under' hood. So when It's open, light is brightly shining down from latch area front.
The wiring size/gauge is all up to the user. In addition to some of these neat little covered fuse blocks that are out there, it really opens up the possibilities.

Just my .02
E
Good call. I actually plan on running that stuff on the ceiling and even mounting the amp up there if I get around to it.
 
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